The Wangapeka Track is one of Kahurangi National Parks best kept secrets. It’s rougher and less used than the Heaphy track but its definetly up there in terms of quality. The track was originally built for gold miners heading to and from the West Coast. The rivers are full of trout and blue ducks and the track passes through several different forest types.
Sections:
Rolling Junction to Kings Creek
The track follows the river along a reasonably open valley. A few washouts and one massive slip are easily crossed. This is one of the best sections for Blue Duck sightings and trout fishing. Once across the swing bridge the track enters unmodified forest and becomes a lot more picturesque. After a few hours walking you reach Kings Creek Hut and the historic Cecil Kings hut 5 minutes further on.
Kings Creek to Stone Hut
Still following the river the track is well benched and the river looks stunning. This is another section where blue ducks are plentiful. Stone Hut is a fairly standard DOC backcountry hut and certainly beats Helicopter Flat Hut for warmth and dryness.
Stone Hut to Helicopter Flat Hut
Arguably the most stunning section of the track (they’re all pretty dam stunning). The track takes you up and over Wangapeka Saddle and down into the head of the Karamea River. Along the way you’ll see plenty of native forest birds, sidle around huge hillside slips and be able to hop over the mighty Karamea River near its source. This section was also where we saw the most feral goats. Close to Helicopter Flat Hut is the biggest river crossing of the entire walk, use your best judgement to decide if its safe to cross or not. Keep an eye peeled for the hidden waterfall beside the river. Right before the hut a creek is crossed – you have the option of using a wire foot bridge or getting your feet wet. Plenty of entries in the hut book strongly recommend not using the wire foot bridge as its apparently quite unstable.
Helicopter Flat Hut to Taipo Hut
We started this section before dawn so that we could view sunrise from the tabernacle – a stunning spot over looking the Karamea Valley. The track makes its way down to the swing bridge across the Taipo River and up towards Taipo Hut. This is one of the few sections with a lot of unbridged creek crossings – not a big issue except if there has been heavy rain. Taipo Hut is an incredibly well built hut, apparently designed in Wellington without much consideration for where it was going. Unfortunately, the hut is in a frost hollow. I wouldn’t plan to stay there except in mid Summer as its a very chilly spot – I’d walk for another 30-40 minutes up to the emergency shelter if I was planning on staying in the area over night.
Taipo Hut to Belltown Manunui Hut
This is the roughest section of the track. You make your way up to the emergency shelter on the Taipo side which is located on the edge of a large clearing (and it certainly gets a lot more sun than Taipo Hut further down the valley). From the shelter there’s a steep pinch up to the saddle. Just before you pop out of the trees the track seems to get really steep, but you actually take a left and walk out onto Little Wanganui Saddle.
Either of the two tarns on the saddle are great spots for lunch (or camping overnight). From there you descend down the roughest part of the track and eventually arrive at the emergency shelter on the Little Wanganui River. Once across the river the track makes its way down the valley to the hut. This section is sometimes maintained and sometimes not.. if it has been cleared and marked its a nice walk through west coast rainforest.
Belltown Manunui Hut is arguably the best hut on the track, its warm, dry and has a decent fire place.
Belltown Manunui Hut to Road End
The easy bit! The condition of the track seems to get better and better as you head down the valley, eventually becoming road like in places. There’s one or two steep sidles but other than that the track quality is high and the views are ok (compared to what you see on the rest of the track).
Walking The Track
As an overnighter
You’d have to be super keen and super fit to attempt this. The best place to start would be on the Little Wanganui River side as that allows you to do the roughest sections while you’re fresh. Aim to spend the night at either Helicopter Flat Hut or Stone Hut and start very early the next day. There would likely be some night or pre dawn walking involved. Not a recommended option. Due to the distance travelled you wouldn’t have much time to admire the views. If you’re looking for a huge overnight trip then do the Heaphy! the tracks a lot nicer and the huts are better.
As a Two Nighter
This is more achievable for a reasonably fit and experienced tramper. Start on the Little Wanganui River side and make your way to Taipo Hut for the first night (or Helicopter Flat Hut) and then Stone Hut for the second night. If you attempt this outside of the Summer months be prepared for some pre-dawn and or after sunset walking to make it to the huts.
As a Three Nighter
This is the option we would recommend to most people. Four days and three nights gives you enough time to really enjoy the track whilst not farting about. This would work from either end of the track although we suggest starting at Rolling Junction. On the first day make your way to Stone Hut – the track is relatively flat and easy. On the second night stay at Helicopter Flat Hut which is about a 6hr walk. On the third day walk to Belltoun hut which leaves a cruisy walk out to the road end for the fourth day.
Four or More Nights
Go you if you have this kind of time up your sleeve! Start from either end and just stay from hut to hut – the biggest day you’ll have is from Belltown to Taipo Hut. A landscape photographer with time on their hands could get a few dozen memory cards full of awesome photos walking through.
Side Trips and such
The most obvious is the Leslie-Karamea trip (I’d recommend starting at Mt Arthur and walking out to Rolling Junction). Others include Gibbs Track, Kiwi Track to Mt Patriarch, Matiri Tops to Hurricane Hut, Lost Valley Track, Saxon Falls, Kakapo Saddle and Johnson Track.
Warnings!
This isn’t a DOC great walk – the track is rough in many places, there’s unbridged river crossings and a lot of time is spent in remote inaccessible valleys. Make sure you carry a personal locater beacon and tell people what your intentions are.
Wild! – like the above warning – this is a wild place. Make sure you have food and clothing for any conditions and a longer stay than you planned.
Rivers – There isn’t a huge amount of unbridged crossings on this track. However its New Zealand and rivers can rise quickly. Be prepared to wait it out if it looks dodgy.
Wasps – In late Summer wasps can be a big problem in the New Zealand forest. If you’re allergic take the proper medications etc.
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